Citrus is in high season right now, and there's no better time to capture the nuances of each varietal. It seems to me that in the past five years, most of the once hard-to-get varieties have become blissfully mainstream -- I've seen blood oranges in a Walmart, and was able to get a whole slew of Meyer Lemons, pomelos, and stem-on mandarins at Trader Joe's. This is so very exciting, because it means more people have access to one of my absolute favorite winter ingredients.